A light aircraft to the south crosses the vast interior of Tanzania to the Nyerere National Park, where Sand Rivers sits on a remote bend of the Rufiji River.
This is one of Africa’s great alternative safari destinations; a protected area larger than Switzerland, with a fraction of the visitors and an ecosystem built around water rather than open plains. Three nights here are built around guided walks through riverine forest, boat safaris past hippos and crocodiles, and the particular quality of silence that comes from being genuinely far from anywhere.
Sand River itself is one of the most architecturally distinctive camps in East Africa, open-fronted and directly above the river, designed to make the boundary between inside and outside irrelevant.